We’re back for the second part of our lighting fundamentals series for mastering light control. In the first part of this series, we demonstrated how to use MagGrids to control light and minimize light spill from one light to another.
We also distinguished between diffused light vs specular light, noting how photographers tend to confuse diffused light and soft light. In this round, we’ll explain the difference between soft vs hard light quality and share a light layering technique that uses hard and soft light sources to create depth in our portraits.
Let’s get started.
Here’s a look at the gear we’ll use:
Once again, we’re using Profoto gear, but any flashes you have should work. For example, instead of a Profoto B10, you could place two Godox AD200s in a MagRing 2 and then attach it to a MagBox for similar results.
As we discussed in the previous video/article, specular light refers to the shiny or reflective nature of the light source. We see specular light when we use a bare flash, or a direct light source, because the light rays fall directly onto your subject and then bounce back.
Direct light is specular because it has a tendency to create hot spots due to reflections and light bouncing back into the camera.
When you diffuse the light, however, or allow the light to bounce around before it reaches your subject, less of the light comes back into the camera.
This is what the MagSphere 2 does. It diffuses the light. That doesn’t necessarily make it a “soft” light source, however.
Again, be sure to check out the previous video if you haven’t already done so.
Now let’s talk about hard light vs. soft light.
We create hard light when we use small light sources in relation to the subject. If the transition between the highlights and shadows is sharp or harsh (and not gradual), then we’d categorize the light quality as hard light.
On the other hand, we can use a larger light source to create soft light.
For example, using only a MagSphere will give us a harder light quality than if we used a MagBox. The MagBox represents a larger light source than the MagSphere (when placed at the same distance from the subject). The resulting shadow transition from the MagBox is softer.
In both cases, the light source is diffused. The light is bouncing around before it reaches the subject, so it isn’t specular or reflective. However, the size of the light source makes all the difference.
A good general rule for getting the intended light quality of your modifier is to position the modifier about the same distance from your subject as the size of the modifier. So, if you have a 42” softbox and you want that light falling on your subject to be very soft, then place the softbox about 2-3 feet from your subject.
When the light is further away, you not only lose light, but also get a much harder light in comparison.
Again, place your lights wherever you want. Just remember that a soft or hard quality of light depends on the size of that light in relation to your subject. If the light is farther, it becomes a smaller light source, so it becomes more harsh. This is why the sun creates such a harsh shadow. While the sun is huge, it’s just a tiny little pinprick in the sky in relation to us.
You’ll notice when working in a studio or similarly controlled environment, that getting “depth” in your images can be difficult. This is especially true when you compare shooting inside vs. outside. The reason for this is that the outdoors tend to offer more reflective light. The sun, when not blocked by clouds (which act as a natural diffuser), offers a hard and direct light source that bounces around different objects in the scene and creates depth. It kind of serves as 2-3 (or more) light sources.
To create depth in our indoor portraits, we’ll use a light layering technique that calls for three light sources: one for the background, a key light for our subject, and a third light to serve as a rim light on our subject.
We’re going to start with a light that can light up our scene. This can be natural light, or you can use a flash as demonstrated above. Here are the results from adding the first light.
Please understand, we’re building towards a goal, so this isn’t the look we’re after…yet.
Ok, now let’s add another light layer for depth.
While we generally think of a key light as lighting our subject from the front, just off to the side at a 45-degree angle for a Rembrandt look, we’re going to take a different approach here. Instead, we’re going to place the key light off to the side and behind our subject with the softbox aiming right at her.
Here’s what we get with two lights. We’re almost there.
Now, we’ll take this a step further. In addition to our main light and background light, we’re going to add another light source. This time, we’ll place a small flash with a grid and sphere directly in front of the key light.
The purpose of adding this third light is to etch out the features on our subject’s face, sort of like a rim light.
It’s a subtle change, but look at the added depth in our portrait.
Here are all three images (1-light vs 2-light vs 3-light), side by side:
Here are the final images.
That wraps it up for this round. Hopefully, you now have a clear understanding between diffused and specular light, as well as between soft and hard light. The light layering technique we covered above can go a long way to add depth to your image with very little effort, especially when using MagMod modifiers.
© 2026 MagMod
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